Santa Margherita Ligure is one of the most charming towns on the Italian Riviera, and it tends to be far less crowded than Portofino while offering the same spectacular coastline, crystal water, and Ligurian charm. This guide covers everything you need to plan your visit.
You might also like: Portofino Travel Guide or San Fruttuoso Travel Guide
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Jump To
- Where is Santa Margherita Ligure?
- How Many Days in Santa Margherita Ligure?
- Things to Do in Santa Margherita Ligure
- Day Trips From Santa Margherita Ligure
- Where to Stay in Santa Margherita Ligure?
- Where to Eat in Santa Margherita Ligure
- One Day in Santa Margherita Ligure: A Full Itinerary
- Travel Tips for Santa Margherita Ligure
- Best Time to Visit Santa Margherita Ligure
- How to Get to Santa Margherita Ligure:
I fell in love with Santa Margherita Ligure the moment I turned a corner and saw the harbor. Pastel buildings stacked up behind a marina full of fishing boats, the smell of salt air and focaccia, and that particular quality of light the Ligurian coast does better than almost anywhere else in Italy.
This is not Portofino glamour and it is not Cinque Terre crowds. Santa Margherita Ligure is the Italian Riviera at its most livable - real local life, outstanding food, and some of the most beautiful coastline in Europe. It also sits right at the gateway to Portofino and San Fruttuoso, making it one of the best bases on the entire Riviera.
Where is Santa Margherita Ligure?
Santa Margherita Ligure sits on the Ligurian coast about 22 miles southeast of Genoa, tucked into the Golfo del Tigullio. It's part of the Riviera di Levante, the stretch of coastline that also includes Portofino, Camogli, Rapallo, and the Cinque Terre.
The town is protected from the wind by the Portofino Promontory, which gives it a mild microclimate and water that is calmer and often clearer than towns further up the coast. That same promontory is what makes the short trip to Portofino so scenic.
How Many Days in Santa Margherita Ligure?
Two to three days is ideal. One day gives you the harbor, Villa Durazzo, Paraggi Beach, and an evening aperitivo. Two days adds a proper day trip to Portofino or San Fruttuoso. Three days lets you fully decompress into the pace of the place, which is the best thing about being here.
Now, if you're jet-setting in from afar, the Genoa Cristoforo Colombo Airport might be your gateway. And sure, while you could summon a posh taxi, why not channel your inner budget-savvy globetrotter and opt for a local bus?
Things to Do in Santa Margherita Ligure
This is how I'd experience Santa Margherita Ligure if you want a mix of beaches, food, views, and easy Riviera glam - without rushing.
1. Walk the Harbor and Seafront Promenade
The harbor is the heart of Santa Margherita Ligure. In the morning, fishing boats unload their catch while locals pick up fish for lunch. By afternoon, the promenade fills with the beginnings of aperitivo hour. The walk from the marina toward the castle takes about 20 minutes at a slow pace and is one of the most pleasant stretches of any Italian coastal town I have visited.
Come back in the evening for the passeggiata - the whole town takes to the waterfront around 7pm.
2. Relax at Bagni Covo di Nord Est
One of the best beach clubs on this stretch of the Riviera. Bagni Covo di Nord Est has sunbeds, umbrellas, clear water, and the kind of easy, well-run service that makes a beach day genuinely luxurious. Arrive by mid-morning in summer to secure a spot.
The town's beaches are pebbled rather than sandy, which is typical for Liguria. Bring water shoes or book a sunbed where the staff look after you.
3. Swim at Paraggi Beach
One of the most beautiful small beaches on the Ligurian coast. The water is an extraordinary shade of turquoise, sheltered and clear, and the small cove is backed by green hills with the cliffs of the Portofino Promontory above. It genuinely looks better in person than in photos, which is saying something.
Reach Paraggi by local bus (Line 82), on foot along the coastal path in 30 to 40 minutes, or by boat. Arrive early in summer for the free public section.
4. Visit Villa Durazzo
The 17th-century villa above the town center is one of the most underrated stops in Santa Margherita Ligure. Formal Italian gardens with sculpted hedges, fountains, staircases, and sweeping views over the Gulf of Tigullio. It is quiet in the way that historic gardens always are.
Go in the morning before the heat of the day. The gardens are open to the public and free to enter.
5. Morning Focaccia at Pinamonti Focacceria
This is a non-negotiable stop. Ligurian focaccia is some of the best in Italy and Pinamonti Focacceria makes a particularly good one - olive-oil-soaked, dimpled, and completely irresistible. Eat it standing at the counter with an espresso before the town wakes up.
Come back for a mid-morning snack if you can. You will want to.
6. Aperitivo at Vernissage
One of the best spots in Santa Margherita Ligure for an early evening drink. Order a glass of Vermentino, the crisp Ligurian white that pairs perfectly with salty air, or a Campari Spritz if you want something longer. The vibe is local and relaxed - exactly what aperitivo should feel like.
Show up around 6pm to get a table before it fills up.
7. Take a Boat Tour Along the Riviera
A boat tour is one of the most memorable ways to experience the Ligurian coast. From Santa Margherita Ligure you can take guided tours or scheduled ferries combining stops at Paraggi, Portofino, and San Fruttuoso in a single outing.
Seeing the coastline from the water gives you a completely different perspective - villas perched on cliffsides, fishing villages accessible only by sea, and the color of the water over the rocky seabed. Book in advance during July and August.
8. Day Trip to Portofino
Portofino is only 5 kilometers from Santa Margherita Ligure. The most scenic way to go is by boat - a 15-minute ride that approaches the village from the water the way it was meant to be seen. You can also take the bus (Line 82) in about 20 minutes or walk the coastal trail in around 1.5 hours.
The Portofino travel guide covers all the details.
9. Hike or Boat to San Fruttuoso Abbey
A medieval abbey sitting directly on a small pebble beach at the base of a dramatic rocky cove, accessible only by boat or hiking trails through the Portofino Natural Park. The abbey dates to the 10th century and houses the tombs of the Doria family.
The boat from Santa Margherita Ligure takes about 40 minutes and the journey along the coastline is beautiful. Swim, explore the abbey, and have lunch at the small restaurant on the beach. The San Fruttuoso travel guide has everything you need.
10. Walk the Paraggi to Portofino Cliff Path
One of the most rewarding short hikes on the Italian Riviera. The cliffside trail connects Paraggi Beach to Portofino with dramatic sea views the entire way, and the contrast between the turquoise water far below and the green promontory above is outstanding.
Allow 1 to 1.5 hours one way. Combine with a boat or bus back for a perfect half-day.
11. Visit Castello di Santa Margherita Ligure
The small 17th-century castle on the waterfront near the southern end of the promenade is a quiet and worthwhile stop. Not a large site, but the views from the terrace around it are some of the best in town, and the area around it is one of the best spots for sunset photos.
12. Shop the Old Town and Market
The narrow streets behind the seafront hold small boutiques selling linen clothing, ceramics, and leather goods. Delicatessens have shelves stacked with local olive oil, jars of pesto, dried pasta, and Ligurian wine. The covered market near the harbor sells fresh produce, cheese, and fish in the mornings.
Even if you are not buying, it is a great way to spend a slow hour between meals.
13. Sunset Walk + Gelato at Gelateria Centrale di Comini Fabio
End every day in Santa Margherita Ligure the same way. A slow walk along the promenade as the light changes, with gelato from Gelateria Centrale di Comini Fabio - one of the best in town and properly artisanal. The lemon and the hazelnut are both outstanding.
The sunset over the Gulf of Tigullio turns the water gold and the pastel buildings pink. There is nothing that needs to be organized or planned about this.
14. Explore Camogli on a Half-Day
A short train or ferry ride northwest brings you to this traditional Ligurian fishing village with some of the tallest, most colorful painted houses on the entire coast. The broad waterfront promenade and small harbor are wonderful for a slow morning. Pair it with San Fruttuoso by boat for a full day.
Day Trips From Santa Margherita Ligure
Portofino
The most iconic day trip from Santa Margherita Ligure. Go by boat for the best approach, walk up to Castello Brown for the views, and have lunch by the harbor. The full Portofino travel guide covers everything. Allow half a day or a full day.
San Fruttuoso & the Abbey
A medieval abbey on a hidden beach, reachable only by boat or hiking trail. One of the most peaceful spots on the entire Ligurian coast. Full San Fruttuoso guide here. Allow a full day.
Camogli
A short train or ferry ride northwest brings you to this traditional Ligurian fishing village with some of the tallest, most colorful painted houses on the coast. The broad waterfront promenade and the small harbor are wonderful for a slow morning. Pair with San Fruttuoso by boat for a full day. Allow half a day on its own.
Cinque Terre
Take the train along the coast and visit two or three of the famous cliffside villages. Vernazza and Manarola are my favorites. You can swim, hike between villages, and eat very well. Allow a full day.
Rapallo
A short train ride east. Calmer and less visited than Portofino with a lively historic center, a seafront castle, and a good market on Tuesday mornings. Easy to pair with another stop for a full day on the coast.
Genoa
- Italy's largest port city is about 30-40 minutes by train.
- Visit the historic old town, aquariums, and vibrant markets - a completely different vibe from the Riviera towns.
Paraggi Beach
- Not exactly a town, but this beautiful cove between Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure makes a perfect half-day escape.
- Swim, relax on the pebbles, or walk the coastal trail with views of the Gulf.
Paraggi → Portofino Cliff Walk
- If you like hiking, the cliffside path between Paraggi and Portofino rewards you with dramatic sea views.
- It's scenic, rewarding, and connects two amazing Riviera spots.
Sestri Levante & Baia del Silenzio
- A longer but doable trip by train, Sestri Levante's Bay of Silence is one of Liguria's most photographed beaches, perfect for swimming and seaside lunches.
Where to Stay in Santa Margherita Ligure?
Budget (Value Without Sacrificing Comfort)
- Villa Gelsomino Exclusive House - Charming, adults-only B&B feel with great ratings for cleanliness and location in town.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/villa-gelsomino-exclusive-house.html - Park Hotel Suisse - Budget pick with a pool and sea views, close to harbor and beaches.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/park-hotel-suisse-santa-margherita-ligure.html - Albergo Annabella - Simple stay with great location under typical budget pricing.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/albergo-annabella.html
Mid-Range (Comfort & Style)
- Hotel Metropole - Classic seaside hotel with pools, spa, and private beach access - superb for longer stays.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/metropole-santa-margherita-ligure.html - Hotel Tigullio Et de Milan - Well-rated hotel right near the promenade, ideal if you want sea views at a reasonable price.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/tigullio-et-de-milan.html - Best Western Hotel Regina Elena - Reliable mid-range stay with classic service and sea views steps from the beach.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/regina-elena.html - Hotel La Vela- It's an 8 minute walk from the center, located in a castle!
👉https://booking.stay22.com/savoringitalyllc/SjyfjGRwF2
Luxury (Splurge & Experience)
- LHP • Hotel Santa Margherita Palace & SPA - Stylish boutique hotel with spa and contemporary rooms near the train station.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/santa-margherita-palace.html - Imperiale Palace Hotel - Elegant choice with historic charm and refined service just off the promenade.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/imperiale-palace-hotel.html
Where to Eat in Santa Margherita Ligure
Morning: Head to Pinamonti Focacceria for focaccia and coffee. Eat standing at the counter and come back for a second piece because you will want to.
Lunch at Buongustaio DOC: A great local spot for a proper sit-down Ligurian lunch. Trofie al pesto, fresh pasta, and the kind of unfussy cooking that the region does better than almost anywhere. Arrive hungry.
Drinks at Vernissage: The best aperitivo spot in town. Ligurian whites, Spritz, small plates, and a genuinely local crowd. This is the 6pm move every single evening.
Dinner at Rêve Café Restaurant: One of the most talked-about spots in Santa Margherita Ligure right now. The cooking is creative and confident, the room is beautiful, and it manages to feel special without being stiff. Book ahead.
Dinner at Madachi: A local favorite for seafood and Ligurian pasta done simply and very well. The kind of place where you order whatever the waiter recommends and never regret it.
Gelato at Gelateria Centrale di Comini Fabio: Make this your nightly ritual. The hazelnut and lemon are exceptional. Made on site, properly artisanal.
Classic backup options: Trattoria da Pezzi is reliable and local for trofie al pesto. Zi' Ninella is more refined if you want elevated seafood without going full fine dining. Vineria Macchiavello is a good wine bar for a lighter meal focused on local flavors.
One Day in Santa Margherita Ligure: A Full Itinerary
- 8:00am - Arrive and head straight to Panificio Pinamonti for focaccia and a coffee. Eat standing at the counter like a local.
- 9:00am - Walk the harbor and promenade before the town fully wakes up. The light is beautiful at this hour and the marina is quiet.
- 9:30am - Visit Villa Durazzo and the gardens. Spend an hour exploring the terraces and enjoying the sea views from above.
- 11:00am - Head to Paraggi Beach by bus or taxi for a swim in the turquoise water. Rent a sunbed at the lido or find a spot on the free section.
- 1:00pm - Return to Santa Margherita Ligure and have lunch at Trattoria da Pezzi. Order the trofie al pesto. It is the single most important dish you will eat on the Ligurian coast.
- 2:30pm - Take the afternoon boat to Portofino. Walk up to Castello Brown for the views, then sit at the piazzetta for a coffee. Return by late afternoon boat.
- 5:30pm - Browse the old town shops and pick up focaccia, pesto, or a bottle of Ligurian olive oil to take home.
- 6:30pm - Aperitivo at a waterfront bar. Order a Vermentino or a Campari spritz and watch the harbor settle into evening.
- 8:00pm - Dinner at Zi' Ninella for something more refined, or back to the harbor area for a relaxed meal at Da Alfredo.
- After dinner - Sunset walk along the promenade with gelato. The day ends exactly as it should.
Travel Tips for Santa Margherita Ligure
- Book boats in advance in July and August. The routes to Portofino and San Fruttuoso sell out early. The harbor kiosks open around 8am and online booking is available for most routes.
- The free beaches fill up by 10am on sunny days. Arrive early or book a sunbed at Bagni Covo di Nord Est or another lido to guarantee your spot.
- Trofie al pesto is the dish. Santa Margherita Ligure is one of the best places in Italy to eat it. Do not leave without ordering a bowl at a proper trattoria.
- Bring water shoes. The beaches are pebbled and the rocks are slippery when wet.
- The bus to Portofino (Line 82) is a great cheap alternative to the boat if you want to visit without paying for a ferry. The road is winding and scenic.
- Early morning and golden hour are the best times for photos. The midday light in summer is flat. The light on the pastel buildings and harbor at 7am and 7pm is extraordinary.
Best Time to Visit Santa Margherita Ligure
The best time to visit Santa Margherita Ligure is May-June and September. You'll get warm, sunny weather, fewer crowds, and lower prices than peak summer.
July and August are lively with perfect beach weather, but expect crowds and higher hotel rates, especially in August. Spring and early fall are ideal for swimming, boat tours, and exploring without the rush.
How to Get to Santa Margherita Ligure:
The following are some of the most popular ways to get to Santa Margherita:
By train: The easiest way. Santa Margherita Ligure has its own station on the Genoa to La Spezia coastal line, 150 meters from the beach. From Genoa the journey takes about 45 minutes. From Milan, take a direct train or change in Genoa for a total of around 2.5 hours. Trains from the Cinque Terre run frequently on the same line.
By car: From the A12 motorway, take the Rapallo exit, about 5km from Santa Margherita Ligure. Parking in the center is limited and expensive in summer - ask your hotel about arrangements before you arrive.
By boat: The Tigullio Maritime Service connects Santa Margherita Ligure by boat to Portofino, San Fruttuoso, Rapallo, Camogli, Sestri Levante, and the Cinque Terre. Arriving by boat is genuinely one of the best ways to see the coastline for the first time. Services run from April through October.
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