I have wandered the narrow corridors of Portofino in Italy - as enticing as it is beautiful, a village where the word 'luxury' should be engraved in stone, and views that can soften the roughest of travelers. Portofino is a thing, a place to be, a tiny slice of our planet, one of those places on Earth where the wanderer still arrives in great numbers. Why? Perhaps for what isn't said, part of this loveliness, to carry away with you for life.
This article contains affiliate links which support us at no extra cost to you.
Jump To
- What Is Portofino Italy Famous For?
- The Rich History of Portofino
- Portofino's Stunning Landscapes and Natural Beauty
- Cultural Highlights of Portofino
- The Luxurious Lifestyle of Portofino
- Portofino: A Food Lover's Paradise
- Outdoor Activities and Attractions in Portofino
- Shopping in Portofino
- How to Get to Portofino and the Best Times to Visit
- Final Takeaway: A Personal Reflection
What Is Portofino Italy Famous For?
Portofino, the little Ligurian fishing village that's a byword for tourist kitsch, a place whose beauty is captured in books and on film but rarely replicated. Here is everything you'd expect: a sun-magnet description of a sun-drenched place, it has the tumbling harbor, painted houses and careless Italian instinct for la dolce vita you could find in a second-rate romance novel. You go here for the culture, the faded architecture and the natural beauty, the lot all rolled into one. Carrara marble, cruise ships and brash young things, the whole lot, all melded together for the lively and the lazy. After the inevitable day of puttering along the cobbled streets, Portofino clings and locks itself in your memory long after you have left.
The Rich History of Portofino
Languishing on the Italian Riviera, Portofino's sun-drenched appearance can be deceiving. Behind its glossy facade lies a village of substance and intrigue. Known as 'Portus Delphini' or 'Port of the Dolphin' to the Romans, its name suggests the abundance of marine life that inhabit these waters. Yet this small town's place was never diminutive in scale; during the imperial era, it was a refuge for fleets of men-of-war, and during medieval times it was the site of grand-scale power plays.
Its transition from Roman station to bastion of a fortified medieval town helped to generate both its architectural style and its cultural ambience. As part of the Republic of Genoa, it became one of the chess pieces of the republic's struggle for Mediterranean domination of trade. For such a small place, it has punched far above its weight.
The buildings tell the story here, from its Roman and medieval origins to its sharply painted façades lining the waterfront. At Castello Brown, the Church of San Martino and the Oratory of Santa Maria Assunta, history and stone enact their numbered acts.
But it was only in the 20th century that it turn things on their head again, this time with an added dash of glamour. Portofino became the playground of the rich and famous in the 50s and '60s, its elegant cafés and pretty port frequented by stars of Hollywood and European royalty in the heyday of 'Dolce Vita'. They changed the ambience of the town, but also cinched it finally as a playground of privilege, where the past hooks on to the shiny present.
Portofino's Stunning Landscapes and Natural Beauty
You are lured into the dizzyingly contrasting landscape of Portofino, where the beating heart of the village lies in the Regional Natural Park of Portofino. A wilderness that has been protected since 1935, it is where tepid Apennine forest meets the heat of the Mediterranean scrub. Land's end here can be found in the park's paths that link Portofino with neighboring dots including San Fruttuoso and Camogli, snaking in and out of hidden beaches and atmospheric ruins such as the Benedictine Abbey of San Fruttuoso.
That's the edge. Inside these lines lies Portofino's park: a space for olive trees and even chestnut forests, vestiges of a strong agricultural life. Life, in and around Portofino, trods the waters with the dolphins and fish that make it a dream of a place for divers - who zoom into the depths around the Christ of the Abyss, a bronze statue placed, in 1954, by diver Duilio Marcante.
The trails here suit all scales of pedestrian, from the serious stroller who gazes out to sea and exclaims 'Yeah, I walked that!', to the novice climber struggling up the steepest path.
In the slow way it preserves this slice of Eden, Portofino is cultivating not just majestic views but also a type of flexible travel - open to biking, open to tourism, yet open to the kind of travel that doesn't change the place, but keeps it as it has been for centuries.
Cultural Highlights of Portofino
Church of St. Martin (Chiesa di San Martino)
At the center of Portofino, the 12th-century Church of St Martin shakes noisily in its Lombard Romanesque folds like a faded leather jacket, while the rolling folds of its facade channel the craft of a century's worth of masons. It wears the Madonna (whose name is secreted in the title della Rosario) painted in fresco by a long-hidden artist and stands as the very heart of the town.
Church of St. George (Chiesa di San Giorgio)
Perched on a rock face over the sea, the Church of St George, built in 1154 and destroyed and rebuilt several times, is (externally as well as internally) a place of piety, a repository of treasured paintings and St George's bones. And so it is literally as well as figuratively a structure.
Brown Castle (Castello Brown)
Brown Castle, perched above the harbor, bravely defies the Portofino skyline. Built in the 16th century as a military fortress, it later housed a maritime museum and customs' post (effectively halting the import of contraband brandy). Facing out to sea and heavily guarded, it finally became a museum in 1877. The arts and crafts of several centuries ago are all here: booty from the Ottoman-Venetian wars and the Napoleonic wars, a look-out point and stables. Nothing much for me, I thought. Except I wasn't expecting the lush, overspilling, intoxicating mediterranean aromas of the gardens which close in around the decaying ramparts, or the piercing blue glares of the sea between the castle's three towers.
Punta del Capo Lighthouse
It is a short walk from here to the Punta del Capo Lighthouse, a remote beacon where people can sip a cappuccino and gaze out over the Italian Riviera: a lighthouse, a distant monument to maritime heritage, a hidden spot to watch the world go by.
Art and Sculpture
Down near the harbor, where the shadows of Castello Brown reach, art takes to the outdoors at the Museo Del Parco. This open-air sculpture park mixes together tradition and modernity, like a Martini with a twist - a conversation between Italian 'l'arte dell'arte' and breakaway contemporary art - where sculptures carve dialogues into the light.
The Luxurious Lifestyle of Portofino
Propelled by the history of its location, Portofino exudes class - and luxury - from the get-go. Take the Belmond Hotel Splendido, originally a 16th-century monastery that has nothing to do with monks, except for those who rest in heaven and probably want to be here as well.
And the view is exactly what you would expect from Portofino: uninterrupted vistas of faraway horizons and expensive yachts. Were it not for the occasional ringing of an iPhone, you might be able to forget the entire modern world.
For those who like a more intimate experience, the Eight Hotel Portofino is nearby. Wedged between mountains and the sea, the luxurious rooms and impeccable service, which includes shuttles to the gorgeous Baia Di Paraggi beach, make it worth removing yourself from a scripted itinerary.
Celebrity Visits
And even shopping and eating in Portofino are an artform: the winding village streets are lined with high-end boutiques and jewellers, and the restaurants serve Italian classics while you look out at the blue of the Ligurian Sea.
The town is not just for the anonymous rich, but a year-round playground for celebrities, with icons such as Frank Sinatra, Elizabeth Taylor and, more recently, contemporary A-listers including Rihanna, walking these streets. Events such as yacht shows and luxury car rallies throughout the year, ensure the jet-set keep coming back.
Living the High Life
Real estate-wise, if you want to live here, for around $35 million you can buy a palazzo, with grounds, gardens and ancient olive groves leading to the sea directly facing the Gulf of Paraggi.
Portofino: A Food Lover's Paradise
The best way to understand the cuisine of Liguria is to start where it begins, at the sea, and take in the wealth of fresh seafood pulled daily from the waters. There's the regional Pesto alla Genovese, a potent condiment, and the most famous basil-packed mixture in Italy. It's the sauce that changed me: twirled into pasta, smeared on grilled seafood, or slathered on a piece of bread, it's hard to beat.
There's focaccia, that sacred flatbread based on the crisp crust and soft, fluffy centre, sometimes embellished with olives, onions or rosemary. And for those with a candy tooth, the region offers canestrelli, those powdered-sugar-covered, lemon-scented cookies made to be dipped into local sweet wine.
Best Restaurants and Local Dining Experiences
Portofino, with its line-up of gourmet restaurants as well as its simple trattorias, is a town where parts of your meal can end up on the plate in front of you, while the rest is to be enjoyed in the scenery.
Ristorante Puny is the place to go if you want to eat where everyone's talking about eating, and better than that, its seafood is really good - the seafood risotto and trofie al pesto are local classics.
Da Ö Vittorio has a cool terrace overlooking the water, where spaghetti alla bottarga and the day's grilled catch remind you that you're on the edge of the Mediterranean.
La Terrazza in the Hotel Splendido never misses an opportunity to pull out all the stops: meals are sumptuous, the wine list pairs local Ligurian stars with international cult wines, and both are enjoyed with million-dollar sea views.
And if you want the most unforgettable of locations, then reserve a place at I Tre Merli, situated on a platform that runs out to sea. It could almost be a setting for another world, as you drink the local prosecco and open oysters while the sun goes down.
Outdoor Activities and Attractions in Portofino
Exploring Portofino by Boat
Sail around Portofino. Moor up at Marina di Portofino for essentials and then wander the bay. Book a private charter for the day to criss-cross the Gulf of Tigullio - get close to the hillside villas.
Trekking Portofino Regional Park
Lace up for the trails of Portofino Regional Park - wild swathes of Mediterranean scrub and cliffside vistas. Trails range from novice brambles to pro paths, and for the brazen, try the 'Red Carpet' from Rapallo all the way to Portofino, an unfiltered hike along the Riviera.
Scoping Out the Scenery
Overlooking the sea, the aforementioned Castello Brown is a great place for taking panoramic photos. Stroll to the Church of San Giorgio and the Faro di Portofino lighthouse for more views and some old-world stories.
The Hidden Abbey of San Fruttuoso
It can be reached only on foot or by boat, and aside from the venerable abbey with its peacocks and craggy setting by the sea and among the trees, it was, well, a dead end, away from the noise and affording a respite for history-hunters and others seeking some calm.
Diving with the Christ of the Abyss
Swim down to the Christ of the Abyss, when a bronze Jesus stands waiting in the sea 17 metres down in the marine sanctuary off San Fruttuoso, in a surreal swim through a subaquatic gallery, surrounded by local sea life.
Shopping in Portofino
Portofino caters to the wallet-heavy crowd, and its tiny cobble-stoned passageways are lined with the type of businesses that wouldn't look out of place on Fifth Avenue or the Champs-Élysées, where Loro Piana, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Missoni share space with a kaleidoscope of boutiques selling high-end clothes, accessories and other items of bling, not to mention the kind of exclusive check-out gear that keeps the shopping-types ticking.
And even what we define as local these days - the village, in designer parlance - has soul: from domestically conquered craftsmanship (handsewn leather goods and handmade shoes, the latter by shoemakers who might as well be artists) to Mingo Portofino (a classic spot for the moccasin-smitten, in business since '39).
How to Get to Portofino and the Best Times to Visit
By Air
Land at Genoa Cristoforo Colombo Airport some 45 kilometres or so inland from the sweeping bends of Portofino's coastline and either a car is waiting or else you can take the bus to finish the journey. If arriving from elsewhere, Milan Malpensa Airport is another option, with a multitude of buses and trains to Genoa. From there you just need to make a connection to Portofino.
By Land
If you're arriving by train, you get off at Santa Margherita Ligure. It's a well-trod road from Milan, Rome and, of course, Florence, often with one or two stops in between. From the main station, Portofino is a short bus ride or a quick taxi away. Drivers should expect to take the A12 from Genoa, where the scenic stretch will reward a slow roll and a window open, although parking is stiff in Portofino, and pricier still when the tourist season hits.
By Sea
For the salty set, come in by sea. Ferry boats sail across the Ligurian Sea from Genoa and other nearby ports, coasting along the Italian Riviera in all its sun‑drenched glory. It's a ride - a movie-set ride down the coastline, an excellent introduction to the carefree luxury you'll find in Portofino.
Best Times to Visit Portofino
Weather Watch
With that soft Mediterranean climate, Portofino glows in May, June, July, August and September - sunshine to release the linens and the sea to entice you - ideal for everyone.
Tourist Traffic
Summer is when Portofino is on fire. The paved streets thrum with the electric buzz of the jet-set, and you'll pay more for a car spot, bed, dinner, boat ride - everything.
If you prefer to contemplate in silence, and not within the hum of a cafe with teeming tables of camera-toting tourists, come in the shoulder seasons: April to May, or September to October. The weather is still cooperative, and the variable crowds afford any road, hike or cultural exploration to be savored quiet, without elbowing through or around others.
The breathtaking effect of visiting in the quieter months is perhaps less about breathing easier but, instead, about allowing one's soul to soak in what a time-crafted local denizen once called the sorpresa del cuore - Portofino's surprise to the heart.
Final Takeaway: A Personal Reflection
When spring came, I explored the village of Portofino where nothing is ordinary, nothing too beautiful to be extraordinary. The pink and blue houses, laid out along the hillside like a brushstroke, shimmered in a sunlight that was perhaps too poignant to be accidental.
The harbor - an aquatic boulevard of yachts and fishing smacks - was the arena of a grand and decadent seaborne past, one wrapped like a glittering gift in the clothes of modern leisure. The air smelled like flowers and salt, and the fragrance of eternal spring. It was here amid cafés and plates of seafood that I philosophized about the human condition. And it was here I rarely feel elsewhere - I felt at home.
What's so strangely delightful in Portofino isn't so much the beauty of the place as that it seems to keep time at bay, so that, its beauty massaged like a crick in the neck by the gentle charms of the town, you are stimulated to contemplate what nature's beauty is all about - and your own passing there beside it. This, especially in the dazzling silliness of spring, is a pilgrimage back to the senses - startled, yet soothed, by the odd, wild splendor of this magnificent Italian landscape.
Leave a Reply