The Abbazia of San Fruttuoso is located in the middle of nature between Portofino and Camogli and it is one of the most evocative places of worship in Italy, a destination of various pilgrimages of the faithful but also a significantly worthy attraction for tourists and art and architecture enthusiasts. Read on to see what all the fuss is about!
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History of the Abbazia di San Fruttuoso
The Abbey of San Fruttuoso in Capodimonte is one of the most memorable and unique sites of worship in Italy. It is the starting point for many religious pilgrimages as well as visits from tourists and lovers of fine art and architecture from across the globe. It is situated in the municipal territory of Camogli, at an advantageous location that overlooks the Ligurian Sea cliffs and is engulfed in the Portofino Regional Natural Park.
A third-century bishop and martyr named Saint Fructuoso of Tarragona is honored by a cathedral dedicated to him there, which also houses the relics of the church's minister. Despite being a public structure when it was constructed in the eighth century, the monastery was acquired by the Doria family in the tenth century and remained in their possession till the present! The entire facility was actually granted to the FAI only in 1983, and they were also responsible for the renovations that were finished in 2017.
Tradition holds that the reason for its rather unique position stems directly from the desire of the bishop, San Fruttuoso, after whom the monastery is called. Legend has it that this martyr, who was burnt at the stake, showed five different monks in a dream where he wanted the church bearing his name to be erected. The church's purpose was to preserve his remains, which it does to this day. The Saint provided three clues: a cave, a dragon, and a spring.
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How to Get to San Fruttuoso
The fact that the Abbey of San Fruttuoso can be accessed by two very unusual ways is actually one of its main features. The first leads directly to the church via a dirt route that is only accessible by foot from Camogli's center.
Because of this, it is also accessible by tourist boats that drop off guests on the pebbly beach below. From this point on, a route that goes upward leads to the church entrance. Camogli is the starting point (year-round service) or, for a seasonal service, check out Recco, Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo, Sestri Levante, Lavagna, Chiavari, and Genoa.
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San Fruttuoso Bay
This magnificent San Fruttuoso Bay is also home to a number of fishermen's cottages, which are mirrored in the water and are surrounded by pine trees on all sides. It's a place on the Ligurian coast where you can find some quiet and where time seems to have stopped. This little community is surrounded by the Portofino Regional Natural Park and is comprised of the point of the same name as well as many municipalities. Essentially, the sounds that you will hear are going to be those of the ocean and the natural world.
San Fruttuoso Hotels
If you want to stay directly in San Fruttuoso, we highly advise you to book extra early, especially if you're planning on coming during Italy's peak tourist month: August. The following list includes several places you might want to check out:
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Casa dell'Arco Civico 35, San Fruttuoso: Eco-friendly retreat with beach access and WiFi.
Casetta Nozarego by PortofinoVip: Air-conditioned room near Bau Bau Beach.
Solimano 50, Santa Margherita Ligure: A serene getaway with WiFi and parking, a bit away from Casa Carbone.
Blue Dolphin, Portofino: Spacious beachfront property, ideal for long group stays.
Villa Rica by Wonderful Italy: Eco-friendly, communal living with modern comforts in Santa Margherita Ligure.
Everything On The Italian Riviera: Conveniently close to Santa Margherita Ligure Beach.
Villa Draga by PortofinoVacanze: Green lodging with shared amenities in Santa Margherita Ligure.
Excelsior Palace Portofino Coast: Upscale hotel in San Fruttuoso with free breakfast and WiFi.
Best Western Plus Tigullio Royal Hotel: Central, well-equipped, and recommended.
Hotel Astoria Rapallo: Known for excellent service and prime location.
Casa Dany, Santa Margherita Ligure: Bright and spacious with a terrace and garage.
Sunrise Apartment, Santa Margherita Ligure: Highly-rated for a pleasant stay.
CasaViva, Santa Margherita Ligure: Triplex with a terrace, known for great service.
Eight Hotel Paraggi, Santa Margherita Ligure: Well-rated, near Abbazia di San Fruttuoso.
Stella Maris Resort, Camogli: Unique experience, on the wish list of many.
Hotel Argentina, Santa Margherita Ligure: Highly rated, comfortable hotel.
Portofino Dream Flexyrent: Popular in Portofino, lacks air conditioning.
La Mansarda di San Lorenzo, Santa Margherita Ligure: Known for exceptional comfort and service.
Portofino House, Camogli: A wonderful choice near San Fruttuoso Abbey.
Exploring the Abbazia di San Fruttuoso: A Detailed Overview
To be honest, the Abbazia di San Fruttuoso gets super packed in the peak month of August in Italy. Therefore, we totally recommend that if you're looking to get here during that time, be sure sure to book your trip and things you want to do in or around San Fruttuoso at least 3-6 months in advance.
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The Museum
The bones of this old Romanesque masterpiece were exposed after a restoration operation that began in the 1990s peeled back the layers. A number of antique table ceramics that had been hidden in a convent cupboard were among the treasures discovered. But these aren't your grandmother's dinner dishes. They date back to the period between the 1200s and 1300s, when monks wearing hooded robes fed on them, and are a patchwork of motifs from all over the country.
Before the Benedictine community took possession, it was initially the creation of some Greek monks in the tenth century. It's a gorgeous setting for a leisurely walk around the grounds.
The Architecture
Someone thought it would be a good idea to add a floor to this building in 1100. A hundred years later, the Genoese Doria family chooses to update their home with a new extension that includes a seafront loggia. By the sixteenth century, they had gone all out and built this square structure that stands guard over the quiet harbor.
The Byzantine dome, nevertheless, is the real deal. There are seventeen little stone arches adorning this beauty. Not to mention the enormous octagonal tower, which is hard to overlook.
The abbey is then treated like any other house and given the cold shoulder, as is typically the case. Someone didn't really roll up their sleeves and start renovating the property until the 1930s. Something as amazing as this, a diamond, abandoned to collect dust until someone at last recognizes its value.
The Cloister
Constructed in 1100, it didn't satisfy admiral Andrea Doria, who had a penchant for the spectacular. It was totally redesigned by him. The Romanesque loggia is also worth mentioning since it adds a very elegant touch.
Yet below is where the real action is. The Benedictine monks who donated the magnificent land are the reason the Doria family is able to lay in everlasting sleep there. Beneath them are two enigmatic graves with unknown contents and unrevealed histories. And inside the Roman tomb are the crypts of seven Dorias, housed in gray stone and white marble.
The Church
The church here, complete with a traditional sacristy, has a powerful medieval feel. The plasterwork and flooring date back to the tenth century.
This structure is two stories in one. The half that was used before the monks left permanently was likely some kind of old hiding place. The primary floor is the main altar. The relic inside is a little silver casket that holds the bones of Eulogio and Augurio, the Fructuous martyrs.
The Tower
In an unprecedented move, the Doria tribe built a tower more than 20 meters high to protect their monastery and its valuable water supply. Not just any tower, mind you—we're talking about 1562 here. Thirty-three muskets, three bronze cannons, harquebuses, heavy and light artillery, and a bomber were all loaded and ready to go.
To get a picture-perfect vista that begs to be taken, you may hike your way to the summit of this beast. Rewind a few years, and the FAI intervened to clean it up, removing years' worth of dirt and debris.
The frescoes, nevertheless, are the true show-stopper. Their eagle crest, battlements, and masks, which had been buried beneath years of dirt, have all been found and are now standing guard over the sea. In addition to giving the tower's ornamentation a little update, the 1990 repair strengthened the whole structure.
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San Fruttuoso Jesus
There's another reason the Abbazia di San Fruttuoso is so well-known, despite the fact that its location and the legend explaining why it was chosen are already intriguing and fascinating in and of itself. Installed in 1954, the Christ of the Abyss is situated in the bay in front of the church, inside the waters of the Portofino protected marine region. The figure of Jesus with his hands uplifted is replicated in this bronze sculpture 17 meters deep and situated just offshore. It happens often that couples who chose the abbey for their wedding also prefer to dive and greet this significant statue in person for a "blessing".
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Trekking San Fruttuoso
As mentioned earlier, you can get to San Fruttuoso two ways. By boat, or if you're feeling adventurous, lace up your boots and hit one of the sweetest trails in the Portofino park.
It's a trek through the thick of the Mediterranean scrub with the sea playing peek-a-boo all the way. Or, if you're more the laid-back type, just hop on a boat from Camogli. Either way, you're heading straight for what's arguably the crown jewel of the Rivera di Levante.
From Comogli to San Fruttuoso
Camogli to the Abbey of San Fruttuoso? Two paths to get there. The first one, through the Batteries, is a stunner – best views you can ask for. The other? Easier, kid-friendly.
Kick off the first trail near the Carabinieri barracks on Via San Bartolomeo. It starts off tame, a mule track next to the Gentile stream, winding through olive groves up to San Rocco Church.
But then, it gets real. The path hugs the sea, turning from a walk in the park to a bit of a challenge. Fancy a detour? There's Punta Chiappa down some steps. Keep going, and you hit La Mortola, a postcard-perfect little town. Next up: the Batteries, decked out with a killer gulf view and a World War II bunker.
At Passo del Bacio, brace yourself – it gets tougher. But hang in there; the views of Cala dell'Oro and Punta Torretta are worth every drop of sweat. The homestretch? All downhill to San Fruttuoso pier. Clock it at 2 hours, with a difficulty rating of medium to hard.
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Craving More Italian Escapades?
Bet you're still buzzing about the Abbazia di San Fruttuoso. Thought that was a thrill? Buckle up, because we've got a whole lineup of Italian adventures that'll knock your socks off. Buon Viaggio!
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