The perfect destination for history buffs who don’t like crowds, Ravenna (in northern Italy) is filled with jaw-dropping, ancient Byzantine mosaics that have been left almost untouched since the time they were first created. You’re guaranteed a trip back in time whether your history-buff flag flies high at the sight of any old archaeological remnants or if you only need a UNESCO World Heritage Site sticker to get your adrenaline flowing. So pack your bags and prepare for a history-filled trip to Ravenna.
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Jump To
- Is Ravenna Worth Visiting?
- Ravenna's Relation to Venice
- Map of Ravenna, Italy
- Things to Do in Ravenna, Italy
- The Best Guided Tours in Ravenna, Italy
- Ravenna: A Brief and Brutal History
- Transport and Access in Ravenna, Italy
- Information on Ravenna Italy Cruise Port
- Famous Personalities From Ravenna, Italy
- Where to Eat: The Best Restaurants in Ravenna
- Where to Stay: The Best Hotels in Ravenna
- Tourist Information
- Final Takeaway
Is Ravenna Worth Visiting?
Ravenna? Oh yes, definitely. A low-key mix of history, art and excellent food, it’s also small enough for you to stroll happily around. And you won’t need to contend with the frenetic hype that accompanies other Italian tourist meccas if you’re looking to get serious about mosaic art history.
Ravenna doesn’t have the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds of Rome or Venice; it’s more understated, more honest. It’s a place where you can walk into historic sites without jostling for a view. In fact, you might even forget you’re in a tourist spot. Ravenna is more ‘Italy’ than Italy.
The food, authentically local and maybe better than the fare in larger cities, includes piadina flatbreads fresh off the griddle, rich squacquerone cheese and a glass of sweet, obscure fragolino wine.
Ravenna is also the gateway to Italy’s less-trodden paths. Drive just half an hour from the urban area and you’re in small towns, nature reserves, farms and fields. It’s an excellent place to base yourself if you want to explore both town and country, without rushing.
Ravenna's Relation to Venice
Ravenna and Venice are not merely paired by the push and pull of history; they are sisters in a dance that began in antiquity, their geographical kiss with the Adriatic making them vital players on the wider Mediterranean stage, each of them a library of legend.
Starting with Ravenna: once the capital of the Western Roman Empire, later the provincial capital of the Byzantine Empire, with its mosaic-covered churches playing out the drama of rise and fall of empires – it was inevitable that its relationship with Venice would become more than just necessary in the Middle Ages.
Drawn on a map of Italy, Ravenna lies on the north east flank, nuzzled up to the Adriatic, embraced by the Ronco and Montone rivers, and with Roman ships, its natural sea passage to the East, its life blood, an ally – Venice.
When the Ravenna light grew dim as Rome faded, the town underwent successive waves of conquerors, the Ostrogoths, the Byzantines, the Lombards – and then a brief self-rule in the mid-12th century, before the Da Polenta family took charge, then Venice, which swept in in 1441 and proceeded to rule for another century or so, through to the early 1500s. But it wasn’t a footnote. Ravenna as a Venetian dominion was the thing that made Ravenna Ravenna until it finally was folded into the Kingdom of Italy in the 19th century.
Distance from Venice to Ravenna
Today, by road or rail (or Google Maps), the direct distance between Venice and Ravenna is about 140km: a mere two or three hours by car or train. That's nothing on a lazy Italian afternoon, giving you plenty of time to ponder the layers of history that connect these two cities.
Map of Ravenna, Italy
The town’s compact, so you can fit in as many of the remarkable early Christian and Byzantine mosaics it’s stuffed with into a short stay – a few of the most beautiful ever built, in fact. Here's a Map of the MUST-VISITS that include:
- Basilica di San Vitale: Beautiful, and absolutely not to be missed, as this is Ravenna’s finest mosaics display.
- Mausoleum of Galla Placidia: Stepping inside, the mosaics have you feeling like you are under a starry sky.
- Neonian Baptistery and Arian Baptistery: Both spots are mosaic masterpieces.
- Archiepiscopal Chapel: Tucked in the Archbishop's Palace, the chapel’s mosaics are a hidden gem.
- Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe: A little way out of town, but the mosaics and the campanile are well worth the trip.
- Tomb of Theodoric: It’s massive, historical, and a stark reminder of the past.
- Chiesa di Sant’Eufemia: Mosaic floors suggesting what Roman luxury looked like.
These are all UNESCO listed sites, proving Ravenna’s heavyweight status in the cultural and historical worlds of the early Christian and Byzantine era.
For travel outside of town, the Ravenna Railway Station will get you where you need to go in Italy; buses in and around town depart from here, too. Need more information while you're there? Drop in to the tourist office in Palazzo della Provincia for the scoop on staying and playing in Ravenna.
Things to Do in Ravenna, Italy
With a collection of beguiling UNESCO World Heritage Sites, it attracts lovers of the past as well as those who seek the satisfaction of finding life’s meaning among its mosaic masterpieces. The following is a guide to the very best of Ravenna, boiled down to what truly matters: the art and deeply meaningful places that have survived.
Basilica di San Vitale:
It was built in the 6th century, with an octagonal shape that falls far outside the cross-shaped norm of most medieval sanctuaries, and a soaring dome that sets it apart from both Roman and Gothic architecture that came before or after. Perhaps most striking are the columns, topped with capitals that defy the rules of the traditional Doric, Ionic or Corinthian orders, with a Byzantine and Roman mix all at once.
The man behind the money was Julianus Argentarius, and not much is known about him. But he put a fortune, in terms of gold, into the building of San Vitale. Why? We don’t really know.
Stroll inside, and the mosaics of the basilica will blow you away. They’re not just beautiful images; they’re overlaid with layers of meaning. The mosaics of the emperors Justinian and Theodora, for example, are depicted with halos not as gods, but rather as divinely ordained rulers. And then there is Christ as the Lamb of God, a nod to his role as a sacrifice in Christian worship.
And there’s a more spiritual thread running through it: it’s dedicated to St. Vitalis, constructed on the site of his martyrdom for his beliefs.
Mausoleum of Galla Placidia:
The so-called Mausoleum of Galla Placidia in Ravenna, in truth a monument constructed to a powerful empress of the late Roman empire - Galla Placidia - most likely never contained her remains, even though this was the place where she supposedly met her death and was buried. Her body, apparently, made its way instead to Rome, where it was laid to rest under a humbler structure. It would appear that this space was actually built as an oratory or a chapel in the first place.
But the thing that really strikes you here are the mosaics – those vivid, biblically themed images and symbols that seem to leap out of the walls, thanks to their remarkable illusionistic effects, transforming this small space into a visual feast of the senses. A ceiling covered in a swirling spiral of gold stars on a midnight blue background, reaching towards infinity to conjure the cosmos and add a spiritual frisson to the place.
Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo:
Originally built in the mid-6th century by Theodoric the Great as an Arian church, after the period of Byzantine rule that began in 535, they re-consecrated it, rubbed off all the Arian elements from the mosaics, and switched to Orthodox Christianity. That switch is visible all over the walls of the nave in the mosaics: lines of martyrs and virgins marching towards Christ and the Madonna, a harrowing catalog of both theological and political flip-flops.
Patches of the former mosaics can even be seen breaking through, the disembodied hands of long-dead (but once-splendid) mosaics clinging to pillars, Theodoric’s leftovers, before they were covered up with functional but drab drapes and dark patches.
By the 9th century, they named it "Nuovo" after moving the relics of Saint Apollinare there to escape pirate attacks, making it a fortress for sacred relics in Ravenna.
It was also a joyous place, not just a fortress. It had, at one time, a gold ceiling – ‘Golden Heaven’ – that honored Saint Martin and that must have welcomed visitors into the church as if they were entering a slice of heaven.
Baptistery of Neon:
The octagonal Neonian Baptistery at Ravenna is another subtly octagonal miracle of early Christian architecture, but the real jaw-dropper is its exquisite ceiling mosaic depicting the baptism of Christ, featuring John the Baptist (who does not always receive such star billing) and the River Jordan, personified here by an elderly man, complete with reed and cloth, emerging from the waters and taking on the role of priest, in a novel re-interpretation of an old symbol.
The proportions of the building – with the octagonal design representing the seven days of creation plus one for resurrection and eternal life – are far from casual. Entering the baptistery feels like passing through what Carl Jung noted as a ‘wonderful hallucination’.
The baptistery of Ravenna, despite the various problems of subsidence and time-worn years, has preserved its structure better than any other of its kind. In addition, the mosaics were updated for the last time in 470s, just before the Gothic takeover, creating a striking end to the Roman period.
Basilica Sant’Apollinare in Classe:
The coastal town of Classe (the Latin for ‘fleet’) – where the Basilica Sant’Apollinare in Classe (6th century CE) was built – is where the coastline once met the town that was port town to Ravenna. The landscape has since changed: today, the basilica perches further inland because the amount of silt has risen. The mosaics of the Basilica Sant’Apollinare in Classe, with their thematic narrative of The Transfiguration of Jesus to refute Arianism, are among the largest ancient mosaics that remain.
Mausoleo di Teodorico:
Theodoric the Great, that barbarian king with a twist, put together his last slingshots in Ravenna, sometime around 520 AD. The tomb that was intended for him, with its huge Istrian stone dome, measures no less than 10 meters in diameter and weighs about 230 tons, without any tricks of Roman and Byzantine engineers: it is built in dry-stone and with the same principles as the Romans used long before. Instead of mosaics, we see pure lines, clean of any ornamentation, which recount the story of a time when the Goths were shaking up Italy. This tomb still stands today as the only one of a supposed barbarian king who has survived and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, marking a definite stop in the Gothic footprint on Italian land.
National Museum of Ravenna:
Housed in the ancient Benedictine monastery of San Vitale, the National Museum of Ravenna is a crusty time-capsule of art and life in Ravenna from Roman through to Byzantine times. It opened in 1885, and is the cultural heart of the city.
Take ‘Theodora Empress’, a vibrant slice of life, complete with the intricacy of Byzantine mosaicists who could create the Empress Theodora and her court from thousands of tiny pieces of colored glass and stone.
Oh, and the stuff from later on – the medieval to Renaissance goodies. Bronzes, sculptures, ivories. Then there are the 14th-century frescoes that were ripped off the walls of the church of Santa Chiara by Pietro da Rimini.
The Best Guided Tours in Ravenna, Italy
Here are a few of our favorite tours that will get you inside the action:
UNESCO Monuments and Mosaics Guided Tour: Get an eyeful of Ravenna’s mosaic past. If you want to see Ravenna’s Byzantine wonders close-up, this is not to be missed. You’ll explore the Basilica of San Vitale; stick your head inside the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia; lose yourself in the Mosaics of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo; and come away with a history lesson that’s also a visual feast.
Mosaics and Food Guided Walking Tour: a tour for wanderers with a passion for food and eating your way through history. Start ancient, end edible. After you’ve had your fill of mosaics, you’ll move on to local culinary traditions – snack away at some piadina, nibble on some good salami, cheeses, and twirl your fork into some of Ravenna’s best pasta. Finish with a scoop from a local gelateria. Culture and culinary pilgrimage in one go.
Private Walking Tour With Mosaics: If you prefer to walk off the beaten track at your own pace, this is your best bet. Spend as much time as you like with Ravenna’s early Christian and Byzantine treasures. It’s you, the mosaics, and as much history as you can handle – all delivered with a very personal touch.
If you’re intent on exploring Ravenna as an art lover, an architectural enthusiast and as a local foodie, here are some other tours that open the door.
Ravenna: A Brief and Brutal History
Ravenna in the Western Roman Empire
Ravenna’s story starts in the twilight of the Roman Republic and earns its Roman card in 89 BC. The city really went pro in 402 AD, when the Emperor Honorius looked upon its swampy rings and world-class naval base, and moved the Western Roman Empire’s HQ there. With its marshy defences and the badass naval port of Classis, Ravenna became a prime military berth as Rome’s lamps were being snuffed out. Its number-one gig lasted until the Western Roman Empire expired in 476 AD.
Capital of the Ostrogothic and Byzantine Empires
But Ravenna wouldn’t go down without a fight. Post-collapse, it was still a happening scene, the home base of the Ostrogothic Kingdom (493-526 AD), ruled by Theodoric the Great, a cultural crossroads of East and West, an epicenter of architecture and culture.
Then, in 540 AD, the Byzantine general Belisarius played a game of capture the flag with Ravenna, transforming it into the hub of the Byzantine chokehold on Italy that it remained until 751 AD. The Byzantine legacy is a heavy one too, particularly via the city’s killer mosaics and monuments of early Christianity – so cool, as already mentioned, they’re now UNESCO-listed.
Ravenna’s Socio-Economic Role
Under Byzantine rule, its mint was minting coinage so hot that the Lombards couldn’t help copying it. As a full-on socio-economic engine, Ravenna’s tentacles reached right across the Mediterranean via its port, stirring up the pot and shaking the foundations of trade all the way from local to long-range levels.
Ravenna was no town of shifting faces or foreign blood mopping up the last hurrahs of a dying guard. No, the long-term survival of the elite depended on incorporating newcomers into their very family tree. By the 10th century, a robust, recognizable nobility had emerged. Ravenna’s transformation into a proving ground in cultural alchemy made this city a crucible of tradition – not just a place where diverse traditions came together, but a place where they intermingled.
Transport and Access in Ravenna, Italy
Closest airport to Ravenna
If you’re planning a trip to Ravenna, in Italy, you’ll have to choose from one of several airports, depending on your starting point:
The nearest airport with a runway is Forlì Airport (FRL), a tiny little strip about 26.5 km from Ravenna. Small airport, so don't expect to have a plethora of flights to choose from.
A little further afield is Federico Fellini International airport in Rimini, 54.7 kilometers from Ravenna, which is much better connected, mainly to other European cities with some no-frills flights – useful if you’re flying in from somewhere like London.
And then there’s Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport (BLQ) – the whale at 73.7 kilometers from Ravenna. This is your best bet for the most variety of international and domestic flights. And Bologna is more than a stopover: it’s a city with a long history and great grub, and it’s definitely worth the detour if you can make time.
Venice Marco Polo and Florence Airport, the long haul, require a three to three-and-a-half-hour train ride to Ravenna – consider these if you’re looking to stitch other Italian cities to your itinerary.
Here from these airports, take a train or bus cutting through the Italian countryside in an easy ride and scenery. The train system will not disappoint and drop you in the center of Ravenna ready to explore.
Ravenna does not have an airport of its own, so direct flights are out of the question. With a bit of planning and a flexible schedule, you can find the best deals on flights.
Information on Ravenna Italy Cruise Port
Port Corsini is 20 minutes’ drive from the center of Ravenna, surrounded by lush landscapes with a yacht marina, beaches and pine forest nearby. When Royal Caribbean opens its new cruise terminal here in 2024, it will have state-of-the-art facilities. The public areas will be beautifully landscaped, with pedestrian and bike paths, and entertainment areas, plus integrated systems for environmental sustainability, such as water and energy saving, renewable energy use and sophisticated waste collection systems.
Transport to and from the port is easy – taxis, buses and an inexpensive ferry service to Marina di Ravenna are nearby, but the easiest way to get there is by Royal Caribbean’s shuttle service direct from Venice Marco Polo Airport (for international travelers).
Those looking for more can take a train to nearby Bologna or Florence, while the port provides a host of shore experiences, including escorted city tours, wine tastings and beach excursions.
Famous Personalities From Ravenna, Italy
Dante Alighieri’s connection to Ravenna
After being driven into exile from Florence in 1302 over matters of political strife, Dante Alighieri was granted refuge in Ravenna in 1318 with the aid of Guido Novello da Polenta. While there he completed the work that would launch him into celebrity – The Divine Comedy – and he continued to be employed as a diplomat and scholar during his residency there until his death.
Dante died in late September 1321 in Ravenna of malaria, where he was buried and where his tomb has thus remained a key cultural point of reference, continuously underlining his founding role for the Italian literary tradition that developed after him. Yet, notable are the repeated attempts by Florence to recover the remains of Dante, all of which have been thwarted by Ravenna keeping the poet’s body in the exact location where his tomb was placed. For years, Dante’s remains were watched over by Franciscan monks who did not want them moved.
Emperor Justinian’s influence on the city’s architecture
Ravenna had also enjoyed a building boom under the Emperor Justinian, most notably with the Basilica of San Vitale, one of the finest examples of early Byzantine architecture outside Constantinople and built between 527 and 565 AD. The church’s exquisite mosaics, some of which depict religious themes and others the symbols of imperial power – Christ with the emperors and the imperial court with the Holy Spirit, for instance – tell us a great deal about contemporary religious and political beliefs. The church itself is octagonal in shape – possibly a nod to the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus in Constantinople – with a central dome, a walkway around the interior, and a gallery all the way up to the windows above. This is the Byzantine style in its full glory: height and light.
The mosaics within San Vitale are particularly striking: scenes of Emperor Justinian and entourage (including the bishop of the city, Maximianus) celebrating his control over church and state and his divine right to rule; and an image of his wife Empress Theodora, to whom much of his authority was attributed.
Where to Eat: The Best Restaurants in Ravenna
Each of these spots in Ravenna offers a tasty treat of authentic Italian tradition, and are perfect stops during your travels. Here are five where you can taste distinct flavous and ambiances:
Cucina Condominio Ravenna: the in-house restaurant with the cosiest atmosphere and generous portions of good pasta: Passatelli with artichokes, tagliatelle with ragù, even lasagne and cannelloni are made with love by chef Paola & Colomba.
Osteria dei Battibecchi: Next to the tomb of Dante, this humble, authentic restaurant is run by Nicoletta, who serves simple Romagna fare. This is the place to enjoy straightforward, honest food, such as rabbit with red potatoes, or passatelli in broth, which epitomizes the local flavors.
Osteria del Tempo Perso: As the name suggests, this restaurant encourages diners to take their time. Among its many rich-tasting dishes you will find fried shrimps in Kataifi pasta and beetroot tagliolino with swordfish.
Osteria Il Paiolo: A stone’s throw from the main drag, it’s casual and intimate – my favorite terrace in town, with a wide selection of dishes ranging from piadina to pasta to seafood, alongside an excellent wine list and live pasta-making.
If you’re after a quiet, local spot to eat, you can’t beat Trattoria La Rustica; there’s nothing fancy about it, but it serves great Romagna food with filled flatbread and stuffed pasta – the service is friendly and the cooking is all home-made.
Where to Stay: The Best Hotels in Ravenna
We have selected some of the very best hotels in Ravenna, Italy, from upscale to budget:
Palazzo Bezzi Hotel – Luxury boutique hotel merging contemporary comfort with classic design. Only a short walk away from the city center with superior comfort and service.
M Club De Luxe B&B – Stylish and luxurious, this small bed and breakfast is highly rated and themed in line with Ravenna’s rich history.
Hotel Astoria – This is a great hotel that has undergone a complete renovation of all rooms in the last two years, and it is distinguished by its proximity to the city center and wonderful breakfasts.
Grand Hotel Mattei – A comfortable choice with modern facilities and spacious rooms.
Hotel Mosaico & Residence – Situated in the proximity of the historical center, this hotel is a good cheap option if you want a comfortable room.
Hotel Roma - Its rooms are inexpensive and comfortable but with only basic necessities, its major strength is its price, but it is also in an excellent location.
Tourist Information
How to get around in Ravenna
Walk:
Ravenna is emphatically a pedestrian city, and I can’t imagine a better way to experience it than on foot. The city is so densely packed with places to wonder – mosaics and basilicas and the vivid millennia they straddle – that you don’t have to walk far from one to the next.
Bike:
And for those with a taste for adventure, take a bike: a velvet ribbon of bike paths bend through the urban fabric as well as out to the less-visited corners of town. A bicycle rental? The shops are everywhere, and are the key to combining your historical quest with a little low-carbon modern discovery.
Bus:
Want to test the waters of the Adriatic, then you can take the local bus service and hop on the ‘Freccia Blu’, which will take you to the sea, to the beach towns, to Marina di Ravenna, Lido Adriano or the other seaside places in the region. It is all very easy – just buy the ticket through your phone via app or directly on the bus – and you are off to the beach for a day.
Car:
The car can be used, but remember that the center of the city is surrounded by a Limited Traffic Zone. The best thing is to park on the perimeter and visit the old city on foot. And Ravenna is best enjoyed on foot anyway.
Final Takeaway
Mosaics flash like stars in the rafters of Ravenna’s backstreets, tiles mid-twinkle in time but with a patina that tells they’ve been around for a while and aren’t going anywhere. Sitting in the dust of long-vanished republics and empires, this town doesn’t shout its greatness. It doesn’t need to.
The tiles, set by some long-dead craftsperson, murmur: ‘Remember us.’ Wandering through the quiet halls of the basilicas, I had a realization: we’re all mosaics, built from bits of joy, pain, crazy dreams and the occasional odd stuff.
Ravenna is a sly, old donna who suggests: ‘Make it count, make something beautiful and maybe, just maybe, it’ll outlive you.’ It’s a nudge that you should tread lightly, but put a mark so deep that someone, decades and decades from now, might wonder who you were.
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