So you thought you knew Italy? Think again. Our ‘Savoring Italy’ series just got a whole lot better with the new ‘Monopoli Italy Travel Guide’. Hang on to your hats; we’re about to take you on a spin through Monopoli’s twisty alleys with the lingering scent of hot focaccia in the air.
Jump To
- A Brief History of Monopoli Italy
- Monopoli Italy Today
- Where is Monopoli Italy
- Map of Monopoli Italy
- How to Get to Monopoli Italy
- When Is the Best time to Visit Monopoli Italy?
- Map of the Best Things to Do in Monopoli
- Things to Do in Monopoli Italy
- The Best Places to Stay in Monopoli Italy
- The Best Restaurants in Monopoli Italy
- Is Monopoli Italy Worth Visiting?
- Final Takeaway: My Thoughts on Visiting Monopoli, Italy
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A Brief History of Monopoli Italy
Perched on the rocky hug of the Adriatic, Monopoli is an Italian town that stopped the clock some time ago – a fossil, alive and breathing, with a history that plunges into the guts of antiquity, stretching back as far as 500 BC, when it was first built as a fortified Messapian town.
But strip away the veneer of the modern town, and the Greekness of Monopoli starts to unfurl – ‘Monos Polis’ means ‘unique city’, and its name marks a claim of roots in antiquity – perhaps with King Minos and the Mycenaean voyages of the 15th century BC, which are still colored in bronze.
Emperor Trajan's Monopoli: A Roman Road Less Traveled
Fast-forward to the Roman era, and enter Emperor Trajan, a man unburdened by the familiar shapes of the West; his gaze fixed upon the Eastern exotic.
Trajan chiselled the monumental Monopoli stretch of the Via Traiana through the town’s very heart sometime around 108 to 110 AD, when Rome was stretching its limbs, flexing itself from Benevento to Brindisi, slicing knots of stone across the Italian peninsula, and with Monopoli slap in the middle of it all, the nerve center of the stonework.
Under Trajan’s more adventurous scheme, Monopoli was the geopolitical equivalent of a poker chip, spun on its edge by the bloated digits of empires gambling high.
It was a town in the middle of the maritime Monopoly board (pun intended) finding itself torn between loyalties. The Byzantines, the real-estate sharks of their era, grabbed it like a Wall Street tycoon moving into a brownstone block.
However, after 800, Saracen pirates crashed the party and made the Adriatic neighborhood party like it was 999.
Fast-forward to the 11th century and Monopoli got its second act. Due to the Normans – and, later, their Swabian friends – the town was no longer just a dirty harbor, but the Manhattan of the Middle Ages. Hard to take a step without falling on some remnant of that architecture, especially those Romanesque buildings that scream vintage.
Angevins and Aragonese: Monopoli's Role in Kingdom Politics
But, like the stock market, history has its bull and bear moments, and the 13th century witnessed a new era of internal politics as the Angevins and the Aragonese battled like corporate superpowers in a takeover war for the cash-rich Kingdom of Naples.
As commerce thrived, ships sailed in and out of its harbors, and art flowed into Monopoli as the town went on a spending binge; and today, the remnants of this Renaissance art can be seen in its opulent Baroque mansions and cathedrals, which stand as a reminder of Monopoli’s lost days of wealth and decadence.
Ottoman Siege
Yet, success always elicits jealousy, and in the 16th and 17th centuries, the Ottomans coveted a share of the action and besieged Monopoli, compelling the city to up its defensive ante. The walls and bastions we see today are the antiquated security protocols of the town and its ‘don’t-mess-with-us’ attitude.
Monopoli Italy Today
Monopoli: you walk through these streets and you could be in two times at once. The modern part is a riot of colour, a rainbow jigsaw of buildings in pinks, oranges and blues.
But dig a little deeper into its core, and you’re taken back in time to a world that’s as old as it is unchanged, save for a dash of Monopoli’s trademark sage-green shutters and a liberal dusting of flourishing balcony boxes.
But amid Monopoli’s seductive call to a more simple past, lies the abrasive reminder that this is, indubitably, the era of the 21st century. Less than a kilometre from the old town, the train station buzzes with the vibrations of connections to Bari and Brindisi.
And Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi – with its nouveau-riche cafés and almost ostentatious modern bed-and-breakfasts – making sure that the jet-set visitor, regardless of whatever romantic notions he might have about the past, will still find plenty of modern comfort available for his use.
And when night falls, as all the ancient stones turn rose-gold, the piazza feels mythical and strange. Locals share an evening of storytelling over pizzas and bottles of chilled Puglian wine, and you get more than the usual touristy view. You get a taste of real, everyday Italy.
Where is Monopoli Italy
Monopoli is a small town on the eastern curl of Italy’s boot – a stretch of the Bari metropolitan city, Apulia (or Puglia, to use the more local name).
Monopoli is not somewhere you stumble across. It’s somewhere you feel pulled towards, by some kind of invisible, culinary GPS. The warm Adriatic, a feminine host, hugs Monopoli in a salty embrace. Barely more than 40 kilometres south-east, a mere hiccup on any serious Mediterranean meander, from Bari, Puglia’s capital.
Map of Monopoli Italy
How to Get to Monopoli Italy
Please keep in mind that the following list of travel choices to Monopoli was updated in May 2024, and are therefore subject to change at any time.
Bari to Monopoli
Bus: The bus will have you in Monopoli in a neat 40 minutes for anywhere between €4 and €19. It’s a tight fit, but the scenic hills roll by your window.
Train: If you want to make good time, the train is the faster choice – 41 km in 32 minutes. First service starts at 05:20 and there are about 27 trains a day, with early-bird tickets at $4.15. Perfect if you are an early bird.
Rideshare: If you have the time, take a rideshare. This is a longer option at 57 minutes, but a lot more social and it’s only €3. You’ll really get to know people and 'share' experiences.
Taxi or Car: If you are shy or in a rush, the taxi would get you there in about half an hour, but it's more expensive. On the other hand, if you want to drive yourself, it would take about 45 min to one hour, depending on traffic. The advantage of driving yourself is that it is all up to you and you can get there at your own speed.
Rome to Monopoli
Train: Trains to your destination from Rome cover the distance in approximately 4 hours and 18 minutes and cost between €35 and €120. If you book in advance, you may be lucky enough to find tickets at the €18 or €32 price point. Keep an eye out for deals!
By bus: The bus trip is longer (6 hours and 45 minutes), but it’ll also be a little easier on the bank account: the prices range from €19 (one-way) to €60 (round trip). It’s a longer journey by bus, but you get to look at Italian countryside unfolding on your side of the window.
When Is the Best time to Visit Monopoli Italy?
Don’t think hot, holiday-besieged high summer. Think spring, like April to June, or fall, around September and October. This is the sort of shoulder season when weather, great atmosphere and the rhythm of local life come together for a taste of real Monopoli. It’s the obvious choice if you’re looking to avoid the tourist riot.
Map of the Best Things to Do in Monopoli
Things to Do in Monopoli Italy
Enjoy Le Palme Beach Club
As soon as you enter Le Palme Beach Club in Monopoli in Italy, you feel it: electric, sensuous, the vibe of a set-design dream come to life.
I spent the day there, bathing in this friendly lido, resting in its arms like a cradle, which will take you to the heavenly places, which flourishes in the reflection of the sun, where the smiles of the staff and Michelin-star standard food explain why I suggest you go there, check it out, because it's the real deal.
Savor the Centro Storico di Monopoli
You might feel that you’ve stepped out of a Fellini film in the town centre of Monopoli. Amid old buildings, narrow, secretive alleys and palaces that once belonged to aristocrats, you can soak in a typical Italian atmosphere. Central squares are lively with tourists and locals, and the town is not overrun with for-hire touts like Bari or Brindisi.
The gorgeous, white limestone Monopoli Cathedral at Largo Cattedrale is the anchor of the local atmosphere. The gastronomic scene of this fishing town won’t disappoint either, especially in the fishing harbor where you can have the freshest fish of the day at La Locanda sul Porto or savor the local specialities at Trattoria San Domenico.
Experience the Giardino Botanico Lama degli Ulivi
The Lama degli Ulivi Botanical Garden in Monopoli, Italy, is a secret garden of exuberant, colourful plants, protected in the shade of the ancient dry stone walls and terraces. When you exit the autostrada at Monopoli – S. Francesco da Paola, follow the signs to I Vivai Capitanei about a kilometer further on; ask for Francesco, a passionate guide with an encyclopedic knowledge of botany, who transforms a simple garden tour into an educational walk through nature. A modest entrance fee buys an enjoyable nature masterclass.
Explore the Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima della Madia
Built in a Baroque style, the travertine Cathedral Basilica Maria Santissima della Madia in Monopoli rises dramatically from its surroundings, the façade a grand invitation to enter. Inside, a huge staircase reminiscent of a Hollywood classic beckons you to its main altar that surveys the marbles and ornate detail of the cathedral below – a splendour that could only be described as opulent. Side staircases descend into the transept, leading to the cathedral’s high point, the so-called ‘big chapel’, where the altar holds the Byzantine icon of Madonna della Madia. The icon is ravishing, and the cathedral itself an incredibly beautiful and truly moving place to visit.
Stoll Around and Daydream at the Porto Antico di Monopoli
An arched passage led me to the center of Monopoli, a framed view through an ornate portico, an open gate to the ancient port. A sea view, its horizon painted with brush-strokes of watercolors. Good for strollers or dreamers on a bench and for people who like to sit and dream, especially when the sea view is before them. Not far from the harbor, a view across the water to the hilltop Castle Carlo V, the port’s medieval citadel and a gathering place. This was once a Mediterranean port, the centre of a thriving maritime trade; olive oil traded with stones and marble destined for churches and cathedrals. It was the port that, according to legend, was blessed by the icon of the Madonna della Madia arriving on a raft in 1117 and, from that moment on, the town has been under her protection.
Castello di Carlo V
The Castle of Charles V is an intriguing blend of 16th-century architecture and late-20th-century restorations, an assemblage of cleaned but crumbling stone, steel and balconies on a high rocky outcrop overlooking the sea. The castle’s sprawling grounds include a Basilian crypt church, dedicated to San Nicola, which was dug out of its dusty tomb and transformed into a modern cultural space with a year-round schedule of exhibitions and weddings. The rampart walkways offer wide views of Monopoli in the hollow below, and of the sea beyond; the ‘Weapons Room’ displays a collection of maritime armaments; and memorials on the walls include a bas-relief and plaque commemorating the fishermen of Monopoli who rescued the passengers of the Greek ferry Heleanna in 1971.
Enjoy an afternoon or evening in Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi
Stepping into Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi (formerly ‘piazza dei ediblei’) is to discover the beating, throbbing heart of the city’s historic center, a triangular space lined on every side by historic buildings and dominated by cultural activity.
This is the nightlife center of Monopoli, with mini-concerts and other events staged in it; a space that was somewhat less animated back in the days of Caffè Venezia and artisan shops, and without the present-day dining establishments and pubs that fill it today. It has now become a dynamic place to be following the refurbishment of the ‘Prospero Rendella’ library and the creation of the new Piazza del Sapore, which essentially bring together the historic and contemporary life of the place.
Make a Pilgrimage to Chiesa di San Salvatore
Local tradition holds that the Church of San Salvatore in Pittagio Pinnae in Monopoli was built by a pirate captain who survived a shipwreck and built the church to face the sea towards San Salvatore. Pittagio Pinnae derives from ‘pittáchion’, meaning a tablet or slab, and presumably the name alluded to the original neighborhood, which dated back to early Christian times in the 3rd and 4th centuries. I had visited Puglia in the summer and from the moment I first saw this church, its façade permeated by sunlight, melding into the classic Apulian Romanesque architecture of the building and surrounded by dazzling white houses like those on the Amalfi Coast, I knew it was a must-see.
Spend a Relaxing Day at Cala Porta Vecchia
Cala Porta Vecchia in Monopoli: a beach right under the town’s strong defensive walls. Here, you have a mix of sand and sea, with next to nothing between the two; a favored place for locals to escape the summer heat and take a quick swim. It’s on the edge of the old village, with its little white houses and church bell tower overlooking the sea, so that the beach feels more hidden. Although located in the center of the city, it’s clean and well-maintained. Next to the beach, a rockier area also allows more daring visitors to dive in.
The Best Places to Stay in Monopoli Italy
Le Contrade in Monopoli is the archetype of finely tuned hospitality: spotlessly clean rooms, luxury scents, and the details are top-notch. The hosts, Pietro and Francesco, are welcoming and the parking service works like a dream. Right in the historical center, this B&B sets the gold standard for guest service.
The location of the resort of Torre Cintola Greenblu Sea Emotions in Monopoli is extraordinary and delivered an overall outstanding stay. The service of this hotel was incredible – staff members at the dining service and at the reception were friendly and helpful. The hotel is located near the center of Monopoli and the buffet is amazing!
Il Melograno – The Pomegranate – is Apulian elegance at its best, surrounded by ancient olive trees and with all the amenities.
The staff is excellent and the on-site restaurant is good. There’s a shuttle to its beach club, Tamerici, and it’s close to the main attractions. Have memorable wine-themed dinners and wood-fired pizzas at the beach club.
The Best Restaurants in Monopoli Italy
Metae: This is a smart restaurant, serving a high-end version of Apulian ingredients, so if you want a fine food experience, this is the place to do it, close to the old center. It’s expensive, but it’s worth it for the quality of the cooking.
Le Cucine di Masseria Spina: This restaurant, which has its own farmhouse where it produces a lot of its own ingredients, focuses on traditional-looking dishes with a contemporary feel.
Its burrata-filled pasta and braised beef cheek are standouts, as are the wine pairings. A meal here is about as gourmet as you can get without paying a king’s ransom: try the spaghetti with scampi tartare and cavatelli with mussels for a real treat.
Porta De Mä: Skillful seafood replete with an open kitchen and vaulted ceilings awaits at Porta de mä, chef Daniele Lopriore’s showstopper just off the old marina. Its illustrious fare of Gillardeau oysters, exquisite Balfegò blue fin tuna tartare and lavish wine list make this a sanctum for eye-widening gastronomy.
Is Monopoli Italy Worth Visiting?
Yes! Monopoli is a place that travel junkies, pretentious experts and all of the other magazine-column inhabitants can’t stop talking about because it really is an excellent place to visit.
Though many towns market their historical centers, Monopoli provides the ideal base from which to discover the region of Puglia. Surrounded by tourist hot-spots such as Bari and the Instagram-famous Polignano a Mare, Monopoli is often overshadowed by her neighbors, yet its enigmatic, under-the-radar allure places this spot on the map as a destination, not just a stop-over.
Final Takeaway: My Thoughts on Visiting Monopoli, Italy
In spring, when the long winter retreated like the outgoing tide, the city of Monopoli looked like a secret swirled inside a seashell. In the sleepy streets lined with white-washed houses, the Adriatic breeze kissed old, sun-weary stones. The town itself was almost spectral, so quiet you could feel the past breathing through almond blossom and the slow sweep of the sea.
The fishermen, their faces creased like the crumpled old tattered charts of mariners, proudly showed their catch. Their nets sagged with the silvery catch of the day that shone like jewels under the benevolent sun. It was in these humble earnest barters that I found the deep continuity of human labor and nature’s abundance.
Evenings were chorales of fading color, the sky a treasure trove for any painter, altered every minute until the stars won back possession of the heavens. A simple, fresh tomato sauce on orecchiette served in a tiny trattoria by the harbor – these gave me the experience of a deeper connection to what the land offered. It was here that I knew what it meant to keep everything uncomplicated – the silence such a joy of the vigor and temper of the world.
Unpretentious Monopoli taught me to listen: to the sea, to the wind, to the stories of the old town. The whole experience was another chapter in the travel memoir of my life, and left me knowing the value of stillness and the poetry of a new place.
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