Santa Margherita Ligure is one of the most charming towns on the Italian Riviera, and it tends to be far less crowded than Portofino while offering the same spectacular coastline, crystal water, and Ligurian charm. This guide covers everything you need to plan your visit.
You might also like: Portofino Travel Guide or San Fruttuoso Travel Guide

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Jump To
- Where is Santa Margherita Ligure?
- Top 11 Things to Do in Santa Margherita Ligure
- Day Trips From Santa Margherita Ligure
- Where to Stay in Santa Margherita Ligure?
- Where to Eat in Santa Margherita Ligure
- One Day in Santa Margherita Ligure: A Full Itinerary
- Travel Tips for Santa Margherita Ligure
- Best Time to Visit Santa Margherita Ligure
- How to Get to Santa Margherita Ligure:
- FAQs
I fell in love with Santa Margherita Ligure the moment I turned a corner and saw the harbor. Pastel buildings stacked up behind a marina full of fishing boats, the smell of salt air and focaccia, and that particular quality of light that the Ligurian coast does better than almost anywhere else in Italy. This is not Portofino glamour and it is not Cinque Terre crowds. Santa Margherita Ligure is the Italian Riviera at its most livable.
What makes this town special is the balance it strikes. There is real local life here alongside the tourists: fishermen at the harbor, locals at the market, grandmothers at the bakery buying focaccia before the tourists wake up. The pace is slow. The gelato is excellent. And the location is extraordinary, sitting at the gateway to the Golfo del Tigullio with easy access to Portofino, San Fruttuoso, Camogli, and the Cinque Terre all within reach.
Whether you have one day or a full week, this guide covers everything: the best things to do, where to eat, the best hotels across every budget, day trips, and a full itinerary to make the most of your time here.
Where is Santa Margherita Ligure?
Santa Margherita Ligure sits on the Ligurian coast about 22 miles southeast of Genoa, tucked into the Golfo del Tigullio on Italy's northwestern coast. It is part of the Riviera di Levante, the stretch of coastline east of Genoa that also includes Portofino, Camogli, Rapallo, and the Cinque Terre. The town is small but complete, with a historic center, a working harbor, beaches, and a lively promenade all within easy walking distance of one another.
It is protected from the wind by the Portofino Promontory, which gives it a particularly mild microclimate and water that is calmer and often clearer than towns further up the coast. That same promontory is what makes the short trip to Portofino so scenic, whether you go by boat, bus, or on foot.
Now, if you're jet-setting in from afar, the Genoa Cristoforo Colombo Airport might be your gateway. And sure, while you could summon a posh taxi, why not channel your inner budget-savvy globetrotter and opt for a local bus?

Top 11 Things to Do in Santa Margherita Ligure
This is how I'd experience Santa Margherita Ligure if you want a mix of beaches, food, views, and easy Riviera glam - without rushing.
1. Walk the Harbor & Seafront Promenade
The harbor is the heart of Santa Margherita Ligure and the best place to start any visit. In the morning, fishing boats unload their catch at the docks while locals pick up fish for lunch.
By afternoon, the promenade fills with strolling families, dogs, and the beginnings of aperitivo hour. The walk along the seafront from the marina toward the castle takes about 20 minutes at a slow pace and is one of the most pleasant stretches of any Italian coastal town I have visited.
Stop for a coffee at one of the waterfront cafes early in the morning when everything is calm and the light is soft. The marina is also where you board boats for Portofino and San Fruttuoso, so you will pass through here more than once during your stay. In the evening, the promenade comes alive for the classic Italian passeggiata.
2. Relax at a Beach Club
Santa Margherita Ligure has a mix of free public beaches and private lidos where you pay for a sunbed and umbrella. The lidos are well run, the service is attentive, and the water in the bay is typically calm and clear. If you want a no-fuss beach day right in town, this is the place. Arrive by mid-morning in summer to secure a good spot on the free sections.
The beach closest to the town center is pebbled rather than sandy, which is typical for the Ligurian coast. Wear water shoes if the pebbles bother you, or head to Paraggi (see below) for finer conditions. The lidos often have showers, changing rooms, and small snack bars, making for a very comfortable and very Italian beach day.
3. Visit Villa Durazzo
Villa Durazzo sits above the town center and is one of the most underrated stops in Santa Margherita Ligure. The 17th-century villa is surrounded by formal Italian gardens with sculpted hedges, fountains, staircases, and sweeping views over the Gulf of Tigullio. It is quiet in the way that historic gardens always are, and the contrast between the greenery and the blue sea below is striking.
The villa itself hosts art exhibitions and events and is worth a look inside if something is on. The gardens are open to the public and free to enter. I recommend going in the morning before the heat of the day, when the light through the cypress trees is beautiful and the terraces are nearly empty. It takes about an hour to walk the grounds properly.
4. Swim at Paraggi Beach
Paraggi is one of the most beautiful small beaches on the Ligurian coast, and it is close enough to Santa Margherita Ligure to visit easily on a half-day outing. The water is an extraordinary shade of turquoise, sheltered and clear, and the small cove is backed by green hills with the cliffs of the Portofino Promontory above. It is genuinely one of those spots that looks better in person than in photos, which is saying something.
You can reach Paraggi by local bus (Line 82 from Santa Margherita Ligure), on foot along the coastal path in about 30 to 40 minutes, or by boat. In summer much of the beach is taken up by a private lido, but there is a free public section. Arrive early to claim a spot. The water is excellent for snorkeling and the swimming is calm and easy.
5. Take a Boat Tour Along the Riviera
A boat tour is one of the most memorable ways to experience the Ligurian coast. From Santa Margherita Ligure you can take guided tours or scheduled ferries that combine stops at Paraggi, Portofino, and San Fruttuoso in a single outing.
Seeing the coastline from the water gives you a completely different perspective: the villas perched on cliffsides, the fishing villages accessible only by sea, and the color of the water over the rocky seabed.
The Tigullio Maritime Service runs regular routes from the harbor with various combinations. For a full day on the water, combine the morning boat to San Fruttuoso with a return via Portofino in the afternoon. Book at the harbor kiosks or online in advance during July and August when boats fill up quickly.
6. Visit Castello di Santa Margherita Ligure
The small castle on the waterfront near the southern end of the promenade is a quiet but worthwhile stop. Originally built in the 17th century as a defensive fortification, it now stands as a photogenic landmark on the seafront. The exterior and the views from the small terrace around it are the main draw. It is not a large site but it adds context to the town's maritime history and gives you a good excuse to walk to the southern end of the promenade.
The area around the castle is also one of the best spots in town for sunset photos, with the light catching the water and the castle walls in a way that is hard to replicate from anywhere else along the front.
7. Aperitivo by the Sea
The aperitivo hour in Santa Margherita Ligure is genuinely one of its pleasures. From around 6pm, the waterfront bars fill up and the whole town seems to exhale. Order a Campari spritz or a glass of Vermentino, the crisp Ligurian white wine that pairs perfectly with the salty air, and find a table with a sea view. The bars along the promenade and near the marina are the best spots.
If you want to do aperitivo the local way, pair your drink with focaccia from one of the nearby bakeries. Ligurian focaccia is some of the best in Italy, olive-oil-soaked and dimpled and completely irresistible.
The combination of a cold glass of white wine and a square of warm focaccia at golden hour is, in my opinion, one of the great simple pleasures of traveling in Italy.
8. Take a Day Trip to Portofino
Portofino is only about 5 kilometers from Santa Margherita Ligure and the short journey is part of the experience. The most scenic way to go is by boat, a 15-minute ride that approaches the village from the water the way it was meant to be seen. You can also take the bus (Line 82) in about 20 minutes or walk the coastal trail in around 1.5 hours. The Portofino travel guide covers all the details of what to do once you arrive.
9. Hike or Boat to San Fruttuoso Abbey
San Fruttuoso is one of those places that feels genuinely secret even though plenty of people know about it. A medieval abbey sits directly on a small pebble beach at the base of a dramatic rocky cove, accessible only by boat or by hiking trails through the Portofino Natural Park. The abbey dates to the 10th century and houses the tombs of the Doria family. The San Fruttuoso travel guide has everything you need to plan the visit.
The boat from Santa Margherita Ligure takes about 40 minutes and the journey along the coastline is beautiful. Once there, swim in the clear water, explore the abbey, and have lunch at the small restaurant on the beach. The cove is narrow and shade disappears by midday, so either arrive early or embrace the full sun. The last boat back runs in late afternoon.
10. Shop Local Boutiques & Food Stores
Browse small shops selling linen clothing, ceramics, olive oil, pesto, and local treats. It's perfect for slow afternoons between meals.
The narrow streets behind the seafront are some of the most enjoyable in any Italian Riviera town. Small boutiques sell linen clothing, ceramics, and leather goods. Delicatessens have shelves stacked with local olive oil, jars of pesto, dried pasta, and Ligurian wine. The covered market near the harbor sells fresh produce, cheese, and fish in the mornings, which is worth seeing even if you are not cooking.
11. Sunset Walk + Gelato
End every day in Santa Margherita Ligure the same way: a slow walk along the promenade as the light changes, with gelato from one of the town's excellent gelaterie. The sunset over the Gulf of Tigullio turns the water gold and the pastel buildings pink and it is the kind of moment that reminds you why you travel. There is nothing that needs to be organized or planned about this. It is simply one of the best things about being here.
My recommendation for gelato is to find a shop that makes their own on site (look for signs saying artigianale) and try the lemon or the fior di latte alongside something more adventurous. The hazelnut is also exceptional in this part of Italy where Piedmontese hazelnuts are everywhere.
Day Trips From Santa Margherita Ligure
Portofino
The most iconic day trip from Santa Margherita Ligure. Go by boat for the best approach, walk up to Castello Brown for the views, and have lunch by the harbor. The full Portofino travel guide covers everything. Allow half a day or a full day.
San Fruttuoso & the Abbey
A medieval abbey on a hidden beach, reachable only by boat or hiking trail. One of the most peaceful spots on the entire Ligurian coast. Full San Fruttuoso guide here. Allow a full day.
Camogli
A short train or ferry ride northwest brings you to this traditional Ligurian fishing village with some of the tallest, most colorful painted houses on the coast. The broad waterfront promenade and the small harbor are wonderful for a slow morning. Pair with San Fruttuoso by boat for a full day. Allow half a day on its own.
Cinque Terre
Take the train along the coast and visit two or three of the famous cliffside villages. Vernazza and Manarola are my favorites. You can swim, hike between villages, and eat very well. Allow a full day.
Rapallo
A short train ride east. Calmer and less visited than Portofino with a lively historic center, a seafront castle, and a good market on Tuesday mornings. Easy to pair with another stop for a full day on the coast.
Genoa
- Italy's largest port city is about 30-40 minutes by train.
- Visit the historic old town, aquariums, and vibrant markets - a completely different vibe from the Riviera towns.
Paraggi Beach
- Not exactly a town, but this beautiful cove between Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure makes a perfect half-day escape.
- Swim, relax on the pebbles, or walk the coastal trail with views of the Gulf.
Paraggi → Portofino Cliff Walk
- If you like hiking, the cliffside path between Paraggi and Portofino rewards you with dramatic sea views.
- It's scenic, rewarding, and connects two amazing Riviera spots.
Sestri Levante & Baia del Silenzio
- A longer but doable trip by train, Sestri Levante's Bay of Silence is one of Liguria's most photographed beaches, perfect for swimming and seaside lunches.
Where to Stay in Santa Margherita Ligure?
Budget (Value Without Sacrificing Comfort)
- Villa Gelsomino Exclusive House - Charming, adults-only B&B feel with great ratings for cleanliness and location in town.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/villa-gelsomino-exclusive-house.html - Park Hotel Suisse - Budget pick with a pool and sea views, close to harbor and beaches.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/park-hotel-suisse-santa-margherita-ligure.html - Albergo Annabella - Simple stay with great location under typical budget pricing.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/albergo-annabella.html
Mid-Range (Comfort & Style)
- Hotel Metropole - Classic seaside hotel with pools, spa, and private beach access - superb for longer stays.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/metropole-santa-margherita-ligure.html - Hotel Tigullio Et de Milan - Well-rated hotel right near the promenade, ideal if you want sea views at a reasonable price.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/tigullio-et-de-milan.html - Best Western Hotel Regina Elena - Reliable mid-range stay with classic service and sea views steps from the beach.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/regina-elena.html
Luxury (Splurge & Experience)
- LHP • Hotel Santa Margherita Palace & SPA - Stylish boutique hotel with spa and contemporary rooms near the train station.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/santa-margherita-palace.html - Imperiale Palace Hotel - Elegant choice with historic charm and refined service just off the promenade.
👉 https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/imperiale-palace-hotel.html

Where to Eat in Santa Margherita Ligure
Classic Ligurian & Seafood
- Trattoria da Pezzi
Traditional spot for trofie al pesto, seafood pasta, and classic Ligurian dishes. Casual, local, reliable. - Zi' Ninella Ristorante Gourmet
Elevated Italian cooking with a strong seafood focus. A great choice if you want something a bit more refined without feeling formal. - Trattoria dei Pescatori
Fish-forward menu close to the harbor. Go here if you want straightforward, no-frills seafood.
Casual Lunch & Easy Dinners
- Ristorante Da Alfredo
A solid all-day option for pasta, seafood, and pizza. Easy, dependable, central. - MOLO 10
Modern Mediterranean food near the beach. Good for a relaxed lunch or casual dinner after a swim. - Vineria Macchiavello
Wine bar meets restaurant. Ideal for aperitivo with small plates or a light dinner focused on local flavors.
Pizza & Relaxed Spots
- Master Ristorante
Good for groups with mixed tastes. Pizza, Mediterranean dishes, and an easygoing atmosphere. - Ristorante Karalis
Comfortable spot for pasta and seafood when you want something unfussy but well done.
Bakeries, Focaccia & Sweet Stops
- Panificio Pinamonti
Focaccia, pastries, and quick bites. Perfect for breakfast or a beach snack. - Antica Drogheria Seghezzo
Local food shop for Ligurian specialties, olive oil, pesto, and takeaway treats.
One Day in Santa Margherita Ligure: A Full Itinerary
- 8:00am - Arrive and head straight to Panificio Pinamonti for focaccia and a coffee. Eat standing at the counter like a local.
- 9:00am - Walk the harbor and promenade before the town fully wakes up. The light is beautiful at this hour and the marina is quiet.
- 9:30am - Visit Villa Durazzo and the gardens. Spend an hour exploring the terraces and enjoying the sea views from above.
- 11:00am - Head to Paraggi Beach by bus or taxi for a swim in the turquoise water. Rent a sunbed at the lido or find a spot on the free section.
- 1:00pm - Return to Santa Margherita Ligure and have lunch at Trattoria da Pezzi. Order the trofie al pesto. It is the single most important dish you will eat on the Ligurian coast.
- 2:30pm - Take the afternoon boat to Portofino. Walk up to Castello Brown for the views, then sit at the piazzetta for a coffee. Return by late afternoon boat.
- 5:30pm - Browse the old town shops and pick up focaccia, pesto, or a bottle of Ligurian olive oil to take home.
- 6:30pm - Aperitivo at a waterfront bar. Order a Vermentino or a Campari spritz and watch the harbor settle into evening.
- 8:00pm - Dinner at Zi' Ninella for something more refined, or back to the harbor area for a relaxed meal at Da Alfredo.
- After dinner - Sunset walk along the promenade with gelato. The day ends exactly as it should.
Travel Tips for Santa Margherita Ligure
- Book boats in advance in July and August. The popular routes to Portofino and San Fruttuoso sell out early. The harbor kiosks open from around 8am and online booking is also available.
- The free beaches in town fill up by 10am on sunny days in peak season. Arrive early or book a sunbed at one of the lidos to guarantee your spot.
- Parking is a real headache in summer. If you are arriving by car, ask your hotel about parking before you arrive or use the parking areas on the edge of town and walk in.
- Trofie al pesto is the definitive Ligurian dish and Santa Margherita Ligure is one of the best places in Italy to eat it. Do not leave without having a bowl at a proper trattoria.
- The bus to Portofino (Line 82) is an excellent cheap alternative to the boat if you want to visit without paying for a ferry. The road is winding and scenic.
- Bring water shoes. The beaches in this part of Liguria are pebbled and the rocks can be slippery when wet.
- Early morning and early evening are the best times for photos. The midday light in summer is flat and harsh; the golden hour light on the pastel buildings and the harbor is extraordinary.
Best Time to Visit Santa Margherita Ligure
The best time to visit Santa Margherita Ligure is May-June and September. You'll get warm, sunny weather, fewer crowds, and lower prices than peak summer.
July and August are lively with perfect beach weather, but expect crowds and higher hotel rates, especially in August. Spring and early fall are ideal for swimming, boat tours, and exploring without the rush.
How to Get to Santa Margherita Ligure:
The following are some of the most popular ways to get to Santa Margherita:
By Train
The train is the easiest and most reliable way to arrive. Santa Margherita Ligure has its own station on the Genoa to La Spezia line, and the station is just 150 meters from the beach. From Genoa the journey takes about 45 minutes. From Milan, take a direct InterCity train or change in Genoa, with a total journey of around 2.5 hours. Trains from the Cinque Terre run frequently along the same coastal line. The station is central and walkable to most hotels.
By Car
From the A12 motorway, take the Rapallo exit, which puts you about 5 km from Santa Margherita Ligure. Follow signs into town. Driving gives you flexibility for day trips, but parking in the center is limited and expensive in summer. If you are staying in town, ask your hotel about parking options before you arrive, as many properties have arrangements with nearby lots.
By Boat
The Tigullio Maritime Service connects Santa Margherita Ligure by boat to Portofino, San Fruttuoso, Rapallo, Camogli, Sestri Levante, and the Cinque Terre. Arriving by boat is genuinely one of the best ways to see the coastline for the first time. Services run from April through October.
FAQs
Yes! It is worth visiting.
No - Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino are not the same, but they're very closely connected.
Santa Margherita Ligure is a larger, more laid-back seaside town with beaches, hotels, restaurants, and a local feel. It's where most people stay because it's more practical and better priced.
Portofino is a small, glamorous harbor village known for luxury yachts, designer boutiques, and postcard views. Most visitors go for a few hours rather than overnight.
Santa Margherita Ligure is known for its elegant harbor, pastel waterfront, and relaxed Italian Riviera lifestyle. It's famous as a scenic base for visiting Portofino, for its clear-water beaches like Paraggi, historic villas such as Villa Durazzo, and a strong Ligurian food culture centered on seafood, pesto, and focaccia. Compared to nearby Portofino, it feels more livable, less flashy, and better for longer stays.
They offer completely different experiences. The Cinque Terre is dramatic, rugged, and spectacular, but it gets intensely crowded in summer and the villages themselves are quite small. Santa Margherita Ligure is more comfortable, more varied, and easier to use as a base. It also has better hotels and restaurants at a wider range of prices





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Santi, thanks for stopping by and dropping a comment. We really appreciate the kind words.